Fire Doors and Accessories

Hi, I am going to fit a new fire door with frame to a kitchen entrance. I want to do everything right but I can’t afford the price I am being asked to get the fire door done. However, I am ready to do my homework using this forum and other sources and to buy all the correct parts necessary to ensure the fire door plays its role fully and that it passes any potential checks by the local authority. I am going to get a fire rated lining which has the groove already for the intumescent seal. This means I will not need to route the door. I will also be using all the intumescent strips that come with the fire rated latch, hinges and knob. I do not intend to install a …

Hi , I wondered if there is a pamphlet regarding the regulations re fitting fire doors. We are converting a loft in an old house . 1) do we have to fit imtumecent seals, if we have a ready made fire door? 2) if we fit the seals to excisting doors does that make them fire proof to standard? 3) do we have to do anything else to the frames? thanks for your time, I hope you can help us. charlie

Hello Everybody, I am in need to replace an old Astra concealed closer which broke down. Do I need to find a certified installer or any locksmith would do? If the former is there a list/website to find one. Would I also need a certificate after the work is completed? Thanks a lot, Tony

Unlatched fire doors are obviously solely reliant on the self-closing device to provide an opening resistance which in turn, maintains the leaf securely against the frame stops in a fire situation. However, I cannot find any reference as to what this minimum force should be. Is there a guideline minimum opening resistance and how should this be measured? In more extreme cases, it's generally easy to spot such defects (e.g. communal fire doors opened by draughts) but there must surely be a more scientific method to identify potentially dangerous unlatched fire doors which may not exhibit such obvious failure symptoms? Thanks in advance.

Hi, I am looking to replace an existing composite door (with side panel) with a new timber rated fire door-set. At the head of the door frame on the existing door I have a gap of approximately 1500 x 2500mm where a couple of services pass through, mainly cables. I am looking to construct a plasterboard partition above my new timber door-set to allow the service to run through and for new ones to be installed, should it be required. Is there an alternative to to using plasterboard or would this be the best solution? Many thanks, David.

I can buy wooden Flat Entrance fire doors & frames (FD30s) but cannot find supplier of frames with sidelight. Can the gap between the fire door frame be infilled with a stud frame + plasterboard?

My client has a double fd60 door set with a 25mm gap under the doors and frame (the frame has timber between it and the ground both sides), presumably face fix smoke seals can be added to the doors but what measures would be required for the frame. Is this a replacement frame standing on the ground?

In a small block of flats (3 floors) we have external flat doors FD30, with intumescent seals, etc. all fitted, and door closers. We want to fit both external and internal door handles as the doors are heavier with the closers. Should door handles/knobs be fire rated at all? To my mind, if they do, only the internal ones need be, but not the external ones on the side of the stairwell. Can you advise? Thanks

Hi, Is a smoke seal rewuired to be fitted in the leaf and the frame or is fitting in one sufficient. Also can you have a smoke seal in the leaf and an intumiscent strip in the frame?

Hi everyone,my appologies if this has been covered elsewhere. I have a lot of nominal fire doors with gaps around them more than 4mm meaning i can't get a cold smoke seal with my intumescent brush strips. The doors are a flush veneer faced door with a chipboard core.i was wondering if anybody knew if i would be ok to re edge them with hardwood lipping or if it is a no no due to the core of the door? I m sure it isn't a problem re edging solid timber core doors Thanks

Hi i wonder if anybody can clear this up for me. I work for a housing association and at the moment we are very busy with bringing doors up to fd 30s standard.We have a lot of flat front doors that are metal faced composite doors and they have been installed with a 20mm flat intumescent strip in the frame, no brush for cold smoke seal. Our suveyor has tequested we swap these for 20mm intumescent brush strips which is fair enough but as the door sits against a foam flipper gasket doesnt this constitute a cold smoke seal? Some of these doors are less than 2 years old so surely they must comply with recent fd30s regulations for flat front doors?Any oppinions guys?

I wonder if anyone has any thoughts on the use of extended pile intumescent brush strips to create a cold smoke seal where the gap around a nominal fire door is greater than 4mm. Thanks in advance for replies

I have a fire door which has a big gap at bottom between door and floor due to uneven floor in the room(higher at 1 side). What is the maximum gap u can have on a fd30 door? Any feedback will be much appreciated.

I've been looking for a fire-rated doorset for the entrance to my private flat. When I was looking last year, all the composite doorset companies said that they had to withdraw their doorsets for flats whilst they were awaiting government approval. What is the latest now? Are door companies allowed to sell composite doorsets for flats now? I can't seem to find anything online.

BS 1154 states that a self-closing device "shall be capable of closing the test door from any angle to which it may be opened". Does this literally mean the door should self-close when released with the leaf resting on the latch or is there an assumption that in practice, doors are more typically released from a wider angle i.e. after someone or something has passed through them? This obviously makes a difference given the momentum of the door leaf is an important factor during the closing cycle. Particularly interested to hear a fire door inspector's view on this. Thanks to all responders in advance.

Hello Quick question regarding fire door integrity using a foot operated door opener. Would this be acceptable to fit on the base of a fire door based in an educational environment? Many thanks Alan

How do I know what type of fire door I need as I think I only need an fd30 but was told I may need an fd30s how do I know what is the correct door to fit and one that is not over specified, the door I have is old but I believe it is a fire door as the glass inside the door has wire squares the door thickness is 44mm it has 2 hinges that are self closing it’s a solid core

Why is it important to keep open automatic self-closing fire doors by keeping them stuck to the walls by their magnets?

Hi, I was hoping that I could help with some questions regarding internal fire doors in a flat please. The flat in question is on the first floor of a 4 storey building of 16 dwellings built in approximately 1980. Whilst it has an external fire door leading onto the communal hallway, it appears that the internal doors are not fire rated. As all rooms have windows as a means of escape, do current standards dictate that these internal doors will need to be replaced with fire rated doors or not, and if so, what are the regulations regarding glass transoms (a.k.a borrowed lights) above internal doors? Thanks

Dear Sir/Madam, Need some piece of advice and expertise guidance on this. I am landlord and I am looking to change the kitchen and living room doors from the old timber style doors to new a style of framed, solid with glazed panels. The project is DIY and involves me buying the necessary materials to construct and fit the doors. The kitchen door will be a metal double slide door and the other one will be a two-leaf foldable door (please refer to attached pictures for your guidance). Have the following preliminary queries: · What are the requirements for the specific doors to be fire doors assuming for both metal frames will be used? o Min…

Dear Sir/Madam, Need some piece of advice and expertise guidance on this. I am landlord and I am looking to change the kitchen and living room doors from the old timber style doors to new a style of framed, solid with glazed panels. The project is DIY and involves me buying the necessary materials to construct and fit the doors. The kitchen door will be a metal double slide door and the other one will be a two-leaf foldable door (please refer to attached pictures for your guidance). Have the following preliminary queries: · What are the requirements for the specific doors to be fire doors assuming for both metal frames will be used? o Min…

How to get the door to be certified as fire proof. It's at home and council wanting to be certified

Hi, is it ok to rout a fire door to fit a smoke and fire seal, or does that affect the fire resistance ? Thanks

Hi, I am converting the rear half of my tandem garage into a utility room and installing a new FD30 frame and door into a new dividing wall in between the new utility room and remaining front half of the garage. This wall will be a stud partition wall with double skinned plaster board on both sides, one side with fire rated plasterboard as required by building regs. Because the overall thickness of this wall will be IRO 170mm, a standard sized FD30 casing is not wide enough to fill the depth of the opening. I am proposing to line the opening with ply wood or similar sheeting and install the FD30 casing within this, the question is: does this ply wood need to be fire …

Hi, I'm getting confused. Is intumescent strip the same as a fire door seal and do I have to have a brush on the seal as well? I am tasked with purchasing new fire doors for a HMO. Any advice is welcome Garry