Fire Doors and Accessories

Hi everyone,my appologies if this has been covered elsewhere. I have a lot of nominal fire doors with gaps around them more than 4mm meaning i can't get a cold smoke seal with my intumescent brush strips. The doors are a flush veneer faced door with a chipboard core.i was wondering if anybody knew if i would be ok to re edge them with hardwood lipping or if it is a no no due to the core of the door? I m sure it isn't a problem re edging solid timber core doors Thanks

Hi i wonder if anybody can clear this up for me. I work for a housing association and at the moment we are very busy with bringing doors up to fd 30s standard.We have a lot of flat front doors that are metal faced composite doors and they have been installed with a 20mm flat intumescent strip in the frame, no brush for cold smoke seal. Our suveyor has tequested we swap these for 20mm intumescent brush strips which is fair enough but as the door sits against a foam flipper gasket doesnt this constitute a cold smoke seal? Some of these doors are less than 2 years old so surely they must comply with recent fd30s regulations for flat front doors?Any oppinions guys?

I wonder if anyone has any thoughts on the use of extended pile intumescent brush strips to create a cold smoke seal where the gap around a nominal fire door is greater than 4mm. Thanks in advance for replies

I have a fire door which has a big gap at bottom between door and floor due to uneven floor in the room(higher at 1 side). What is the maximum gap u can have on a fd30 door? Any feedback will be much appreciated.

I've been looking for a fire-rated doorset for the entrance to my private flat. When I was looking last year, all the composite doorset companies said that they had to withdraw their doorsets for flats whilst they were awaiting government approval. What is the latest now? Are door companies allowed to sell composite doorsets for flats now? I can't seem to find anything online.

BS 1154 states that a self-closing device "shall be capable of closing the test door from any angle to which it may be opened". Does this literally mean the door should self-close when released with the leaf resting on the latch or is there an assumption that in practice, doors are more typically released from a wider angle i.e. after someone or something has passed through them? This obviously makes a difference given the momentum of the door leaf is an important factor during the closing cycle. Particularly interested to hear a fire door inspector's view on this. Thanks to all responders in advance.

Hello Quick question regarding fire door integrity using a foot operated door opener. Would this be acceptable to fit on the base of a fire door based in an educational environment? Many thanks Alan

How do I know what type of fire door I need as I think I only need an fd30 but was told I may need an fd30s how do I know what is the correct door to fit and one that is not over specified, the door I have is old but I believe it is a fire door as the glass inside the door has wire squares the door thickness is 44mm it has 2 hinges that are self closing it’s a solid core

Why is it important to keep open automatic self-closing fire doors by keeping them stuck to the walls by their magnets?

Hi, I was hoping that I could help with some questions regarding internal fire doors in a flat please. The flat in question is on the first floor of a 4 storey building of 16 dwellings built in approximately 1980. Whilst it has an external fire door leading onto the communal hallway, it appears that the internal doors are not fire rated. As all rooms have windows as a means of escape, do current standards dictate that these internal doors will need to be replaced with fire rated doors or not, and if so, what are the regulations regarding glass transoms (a.k.a borrowed lights) above internal doors? Thanks

Dear Sir/Madam, Need some piece of advice and expertise guidance on this. I am landlord and I am looking to change the kitchen and living room doors from the old timber style doors to new a style of framed, solid with glazed panels. The project is DIY and involves me buying the necessary materials to construct and fit the doors. The kitchen door will be a metal double slide door and the other one will be a two-leaf foldable door (please refer to attached pictures for your guidance). Have the following preliminary queries: · What are the requirements for the specific doors to be fire doors assuming for both metal frames will be used? o Min…

Dear Sir/Madam, Need some piece of advice and expertise guidance on this. I am landlord and I am looking to change the kitchen and living room doors from the old timber style doors to new a style of framed, solid with glazed panels. The project is DIY and involves me buying the necessary materials to construct and fit the doors. The kitchen door will be a metal double slide door and the other one will be a two-leaf foldable door (please refer to attached pictures for your guidance). Have the following preliminary queries: · What are the requirements for the specific doors to be fire doors assuming for both metal frames will be used? o Min…

How to get the door to be certified as fire proof. It's at home and council wanting to be certified

Hi, is it ok to rout a fire door to fit a smoke and fire seal, or does that affect the fire resistance ? Thanks

Hi, I am converting the rear half of my tandem garage into a utility room and installing a new FD30 frame and door into a new dividing wall in between the new utility room and remaining front half of the garage. This wall will be a stud partition wall with double skinned plaster board on both sides, one side with fire rated plasterboard as required by building regs. Because the overall thickness of this wall will be IRO 170mm, a standard sized FD30 casing is not wide enough to fill the depth of the opening. I am proposing to line the opening with ply wood or similar sheeting and install the FD30 casing within this, the question is: does this ply wood need to be fire …

Hi, I'm getting confused. Is intumescent strip the same as a fire door seal and do I have to have a brush on the seal as well? I am tasked with purchasing new fire doors for a HMO. Any advice is welcome Garry

We have to router the head of the door to fit intumescent strip but this ruins the certificate sticker on the door. So we take pics of it before as evidence. There is no way of moving sticker as when you try to take it off it just breaks up. And can we cut head of door to fit out of level frame head to.

Is there any requirement to have handles on a 30 min fire door ? I have yale type night latches with no little button to hold the latch (do they need to be fire rated and stamped ?) and seperate mortice euro locks with no handles but with thumb turn cylinder inside. eg can I have the yale type latch and two mortice locks with thumb turns ? or is that too many locks on one door ? thankyou

Hi, I am in the process of arranging for my fire doors to be upgtaded. The joiner who does a lot of these told me the max 4mm gap is not possible as the door wouldnt close properly with the intumescent strips fitted. Is that correct ? Thanks

Hi Iv recently won a contract up grading the iron mongary and fire/smoke seal on old fire doors. I know the gap has to be 3-4 mm but a lot of these doors have a decent leading edge on them. Will this fail the door? as it makes the door stop side edge over 4mm when the door is shut.... also if the 8mm hard wood edging has been completely planed through does this affect the integrity of the door? Thanks chudy

Hello All! I have recently taken over the fire safety within the Company I am working for. They have never done any fire door checks. When undertaking this, I found that 7/10 of the doors on the main escape route had more than a 4mm gap between the door leaf and frame (top and sides). What is the best solution to correct this? Can i just add strips of wood the door frames to correct this gap? Is this solution accepted? Thanks in advance.

I have a general enquiry which I was hoping someone may be able to advise on. My property management company has recently installed fire doors and I am concerned that they do not conform to regulations in that the door opens inwards over carpet and obviously has to be able to slide closed. However, as soon as the door is closed the other side of the threshold which does not have a thick carpet means there is a 1-2 inch gap at the bottom of the fire door. The surveyor's excuse is that it is because my carpet is too thick but as the carpet was already in place, I do not know what needs to be done to ensure that the gap is reduced (As I understand it, there should not be mor…

Hello, Our building inspector has asked us to upgrade several door sets to FD30 in our 1909 house. For most of these I would much rather do this by upgrading the existing doors to nominal Fd30 doors and am confident that I have the practical skills I need. A previous inspector had said this would be fine and that there would be a straightforward solution for our doors. The problem I have is that the doors are all a little over 30mm thick. Why are nominal doors normally required to be 44mm thick or more? Is the requirement for a nominal fire door to be 44mm thick or greater an absolute rule, or is there a way round this? Thanks in advance Peter

Hi Our flat which is arranged over two floors is on the top floor of a 3 storey purpose built block of 6 flats which was built in the 80s. All the doors are self closing doors. We are renovating and have seen a door on eBay. Do all the doors need to be self closing including the bathroom and what standard should they be ? Thanks

Dear all: I live in a house with 4 flats.: Flat 1 (ground), Flat 2 (1st floor), Flat 3 (2nd floor, my flat) and I have recently bought the top flat (Flat 4). The entrance doors for my 2 flats (3 and 4) are in the 2nd floor, as Flat 4 has the stairs within the property. I only have to open a wall in a corridor to communicate them and put a fire door there. Now the Building control team in the council said it should be an F60 door, but I have been advised by a fire expert I only need an F30, because it is not in the communal corridor, it will be in between the 2 properties that we own, nobody can go further up in the building. Could you please advise what kind of…