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  1. They aren't illegal and he could be the one who ends up in legal trouble if he puts that about widely! Good luck in the summer!
  2. Glass blocks do exist that would satisfy the fire performance requirements, but proving if existing ones are is quite difficult. In theory they should be, but even if the site has been signed off that doesn't actually mean they are, building control completion certificates have little relevance to workmanship & correct use of materials from a fire safety point of view.
  3. From the current (2016) standard: Non-residential premises used for recreation NOTE 1 This class includes such premises as theatres, cinemas, concert halls, exhibition halls, sports halls, public houses and restaurants. People using such premises can be expected to be unfamiliar with the layout. Also, it might be desirable to reoccupy the premises once the normal lighting has been restored, or to delay evacuation after the initial failure of the normal supply, if this is permitted. Based on these considerations, 3 h duration emergency lighting should be installed. Where the no
  4. You need a Fire Risk Assessment. Is the flat separate from the unit (i.e. separate entrance and stair) or is it part of the unit. Where there is inadequate fire separation between the unit and the flats above this will require fire alarm systems between the two & more. You may have inadvertently acquired premises that do not meet the legal standards for fire safety - catering premises with accommodation above are a high priority for enforcement and on conviction a prison sentence of up to 2 years and an unlimited fine can be levied. You need a competent person to carry out a risk ass
  5. Detection can never fully replace compartmentation breaches as there is a minimum Required Safe Evacuation Time (which is higher in sleeping risk) that even the earliest warning won't be enough if a fire (or more importantly the heat, smoke & toxins) has no physical check. Basements should generally be 60 minutes, you might allow a lesser amount with compensation, but if you have multiple penetrations with no passive protection at all you are looking at a very hazardous situation. I had a 19th century mill that was completely unprotected and should have had all the floors underdrawn
  6. A standard EL fitting will either have a single Green LED or, if a rather old fitting a single Red LED. These signify that the fitting has a live main supply in and should be charging (but is no guarantee the blub or LED tray works or that the battery is holding a charge hence the monthly & annual test regime) As green-foam says some fittings are self testing, carrying out the monthly & annual test regime automatically. These use either three (red, amber, green) or more commonly two (red/green) LEDS which give a message on their status that depends on which ones are lit, whether the
  7. AnthonyB


    Are you taking about a storey exit onto an external escape stair or an internal fire door onto an internal protected stair? It could be seen to narrow and obstruct the escape and depending on how it fastens that could be an issue, but it's not necessarily an outright no. Your Fire Risk Assessor, who will be familiar with your premises and layout should be able to give a definitive site specific answer.
  8. Better AFD would be preferable so there is less reliance on the door performance for any length of time, but it could be deemed tolerable in an FRA
  9. You don't understand PHE, the intent is not to immediately evacuate the premises at all, just the compartment of origin, the aim being to avoid needing to externally evacuate the premises due to the vulnerabilities of the residents and the resources required to do this. PHE aims in having a minimum of 60 minutes seperation between the occupiers and the fire - the 30 minutes construction & door of the room and the 30 minutes construction & doors of the sub compartment. Smoke is the biggest killer (as shown by the 14 dead in the Rosepark Care Home fire) and so all fire doors shoul
  10. Assuming they have always normally been off it would suggest something affecting the supply to the fitting between the consumer unit and the fitting (wiring, junction boxes) or a fault in the unit. When it's lit does the little red or green LED light on it go out?
  11. This should have been picked up in the survey when you bought it and either compliance required before signing the contract or the seller required to provide building regulations indemnity insurance for you in case you get enforcement action taken. Unless the conversion was in the last year or so it's too late for the local authority to require you to regularise the work if you leave it as is - but if you carry out any new work affecting the area in question the clock resets and you would be expected to have a compliant situation at the end. The fact that it is going from a bedroom to a
  12. You are defeating the point of having P50's if still supplying CO2 as well - you are still needing extra training on which type to use and still need an external service company. It's not new technology. The use of di-electric tested extinguishers on electrical fires dates back to at least 1977 in British Standards for extinguisher manufacture (when BS5423 was first published and the AFFF Spray extinguisher was invented by Thomas Glover) and it isn't a new concept. If your existing foam extinguishers have passed the test (i.e. not printed 'do not use on electrical fires) they are
  13. Size of an extinguisher has not been a factor in specifying extinguishers for nearly 50 years. The fire rating of the extinguisher (the biggest fire a trained operator can put out with the extinguisher) The minimum recommended rating is 26A, made up using a minimum of two extinguishers (e.g. 2 x 13A rated units), however in a small premises a single 13A unit may in reality suffice. Your old 9 litre water will have a 13A (or 21A) rating - but so does a 2litre Triclass P50 with the added benefit of a 55B rating for flammable liquid fires and safe to use on fires where an electrical suppl
  14. No, as this would indicate that both the mains is off and the batteries drained (unless by some small chance the indicator lights are faulty). If the agent/landlord isn't responding to calls for maintenance you should inform the fire safety office of your local Fire Service who can compel them to act.
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