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green-foam

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  1. Guest Protect UK has made a duplicate post which you can see/reply to if you Click here
  2. Fire hoods are only a requirement if there is a sleeping area above the lights. An example is: A kitchen with a bedroom above. But that said, if a downlight is Fire rated it does not require a "fire hood" Fire hoods/fire rated downlights are only designed to stop the spread of fire from the level below to the level above. Insulation covering downlights only serves to keep heat in the light, so causing it to get too hot and to fail prematurely. Low smoke cable can often be found in large open space public buildings, it is not a requirement elsewhere. Cables should be neatly clipped as and when required* but this fact is often ignored due to time allowed for the job. * Depending on size of cable, cable run length, what it is fixed to, vertical or horizontal
  3. If the batteries are less than 1 year old, and the alarm has not sounded since, but does sound when the test button is pressed, and the alarm has not expired (Some CO alarms have a 5 year life, others a 7 year life) then you have had a false alarm.
  4. A red LED flashing twice in 40 seconds means that That detector has gone into alarm. For the sake of argument you have 4 Aico detectors interlinked. You are in the garden and you hear the alarm, but it stops as you get back in, you then look at all your detectors, which ever one is flashing twice in 40 seconds, is the one that went into alarm. If it has not cleared press and hold the test button for at least 10 seconds
  5. If they have no fire label as you know you can not sell them, but there is nothing to stop you giving them away. For future reference: Furniture made before the1950's does not require any label. (But that would mean it is 70+ years old)
  6. Are you sure? To operate any electric doors, a crane, conveyor belt etc does require a lot of energy several Amps so yes a generator may be required in your case. (It may even need 3 phase) but an average emergency light only uses 11milliAmps 11mA is around 2.6 watts, the lamp in my fridge is 5 watts (Yes, almost twice as much) I would be very surprised if the supply you have can not run a few emergency lights. You may be able to use torches, but I would have to ask, if there was a powercut, how would anyone find a torch?* There is such a thing as a "plug in torch" that you plug into a normal socket, when there is a powercut the torch comes on, but you would need to have conveniently placed sockets installed. "plug in torches" for commercial use cost close to £50 each, 3 hour duration emergency lights cost less than 1/2 of that. *It has been shown that if personnel carried a torch all the time "just in case" after a short while the torches would get lost, flat batteries or just forgotten about.
  7. If the batteries are corroded, and "something wet" came out of your CO alarm, and its display is blank, I would replace it A.S.A.P.
  8. I would ask is the mains present at the detectors?
  9. The idea is that a smoke alarm is NOT mounted in a "dead area" If the loft hatch takes up most of the available room then you have no choice. Also you should read what the instructions say.
  10. Smoke alarms very rarely false alarm, as yours has done so twice in less than 12 hours and it was only installed just under 3 months ago I would get in touch with fire angel, It should be covered under the fire angel 5 year warranty.
  11. Your question sounds simple, but it has too many variables, even if you were given a guess you still have to get at least 2 quotes for the work. You should start with a Fire Risk Assessment.
  12. I suggest you ask the local authority, you don't want to have it fitted for them to say it is not acceptable.
  13. You could have taken the smoke detector down and cleaned it with a vacuum cleaner (Clears out any dust etc) If you are going to change it, as it is interlinked get another one of the same brand, if you don't none of them may work at all. Carbon monoxide does not smell.
  14. It is a piezzo sounder, it is not a fire alarm related question. I can only suggest you buy a different alarm, one that has "chime"
  15. If a smoke alarm fails to sound when the test button is pressed * I would change the complete unit. If the upstairs smoke alarm is interlinked with the downstairs smoke alarm you will probably have to change both at the same time as the following are obsolete and there is nothing compatible with them. Deta 1153, Deta 1111, Deta 1115 * It may be possible to fix, but for peace of mind it would be best to change it. Safelincs supply new smoke alarms Click here
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