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green-foam

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  1. A bathroom window has nothing to do with a fire risk. On a personal note, I would say you do not know why the window is shut, by the same token I would say she does not know why you keep opening the window. Perhaps the two of you should speak to each other.
  2. It will carry on beeping until the battery is replaced. As it uses so little energy to do this, it can continue for as long as a month. Sorry to hear you are having problems, but it is as easy as shown in the video above. You need to stay where you are as you insert the screwdriver as shown in the first picture. I have found that a "terminal" screwdriver works just as well, after inserting it, GENTLY pull down (If the detector is mounted on the ceiling) This releases the catch, then push the main unit (The part with the LEDs) forward. (Away from you) You are correct, the Ei141 does contain radio active material, it is also now obsolete, and should be changed for the Ei146E which is an optical smoke alarm.
  3. First of all I should point out that in the first instance you were right, carbon monoxide is written as CO, not as you went on to say CO2. There is a major difference in that carbon monoxide is lethal in small doses, CO2 is in short what makes fizzy drinks fizzy (That's just for starters) always be careful when writing its chemical formula. Back to your question. The Nest protect 2nd generation does have a heat sensor, however, the heat sensor does not create an alarm condition, it is there to tell the "Brain" of the detector that it is getting hot, and to adjust the sensitivity of the smoke sensor. This function means that it does not comply with building regulations for a kitchen. If you are wondering what heat detector is compatible with a nest protect (Like most folk) the answer is, I am sorry to say that Nest uses a closed protocol and there is not a compatible heat detector, and there are no plans to make one for the foreseeable future. So to comply with building regulations, you will have to change all your nest protects to a brand which does have a heat alarm and smoke alarm and be inter-linkable, to be honest it is not such a bad thing as I should point out a little known fact. On the 10th anniversary from manufacture (Not from installation) the nest protect will stop working It will notify you prior to this (at least a week) once this has happened there is nothing you can do. (You can not reset the timer, neither is there a "hidden code" to override it for a month or two) It does this as the sensors become unreliable, other brands of smoke alarm also have the same problem (Sensors expire) but unlike the nest they will continue to operate which will allow you more time to replace them. Click here to listen to what your nest protect will say (Example for the hall. Link is from nest website)
  4. green-foam

    660MBX

    It may seem an odd suggestion, but I would agree, if you are having to change two smoke alarms, you would be better off changing all of them now, rather than wait till you have to change the others, this also means that you can install a totally different brand, one that does not require a "conversion kit"
  5. Yes it would be safe. So long the panel has its own fused connection unit. It could also be taken from the lighting circuit (Still with an FCU for isolation/protection) that way if there is a problem it should soon be repaired as no one likes to go without lights.
  6. As you note, a carbon monoxide detector will sound when it detects carbon monoxide and stop shortly after there is no carbon monoxide present. Since the detector in question has been problem free for most of the time, it could be one of two possibilities. 1) The detector is nearing the end of its useful life. (You do not say it's age) 2) The detector is actually detecting carbon monoxide (Have you or any of your neighbours had anything new / started to use a heater?) Since carbon monoxide is colourless and odour less, you could buy another carbon monoxide alarm (With digital counter would be preferable) place it adjacent the existing carbon monoxide alarm and monitor what happens.
  7. Smoke alarm beeping roughly every 60 seconds is a sign of low standby battery.
  8. green-foam

    Mr

    You should not mix brands of hard wired interlinked smoke alarm incase they fail to operate in the event of fire. Radio interlinked smoke alarms will not recognise each other, so you can't interlink them.
  9. The type of fire alarm that indicates the status of a specific device (Fire, missing, fault, contamination) is known as analogue addressable. It is the panel that "interrogates" all devices, (Call points, sounders, detectors etc) so no matter what you opt for, unless it is addressable, any panel will only indicate the zone or type of device operated, which is not what you are looking for. There are a variety of "2 wire panels" Kentec do make a panel which is compatible with what you currently have the "Kentec Sigma CP Sav-Wire" Part code T11040M2 Apollo AlarmSense detectors are designed for two wire systems, such as you have now. Apollo recommend that their detectors be changed every 10 years of working life.
  10. Have you tried resetting the call point?
  11. If you are confident to do so, then yes. But bear in mind, in an ideal world smoke alarms should be connected to the lighting circuit, not on their own MCB, also you will need a means of proving that the cables are indeed dead. That said, you might even find the reason why the existing smoke alarms do not work, I still suspect a broken neutral. An EICR is only to check the condition of the existing wiring, if the wiring does nothing, there is no need to check it any further.
  12. If you really wanted to, then yes you can, but you would either have to install them in new positions or pay for someone to disconnect the cables for the existing smoke alarms, since you wont want them to cause problems in the future. I would guess the electrician who said the smoke alarms were live is not familiar with the operation of interlinked smoke alarms and only checked to see if he could find 240v. I would suspect a broken neutral wire, which would be cheaper to trace than buying all new detectors. Personally I would want to know why there is no supply, even if I was going to change all the smoke alarms
  13. To have 5 smoke alarms have no mains indicator light showing does not sound correct. (I would suspect a wiring problem) With no mains the detectors will run on battery power, but when the battery starts to run low, the detectors will beep every 60 seconds, which is what you appear to be having. I should also point out that the Ei161rc is obsolete. But I would still get each base checked for mains voltage.
  14. Self testing emergency lights are very reliable, they do not (as yet) have a way to remotely monitor their actions. If you do not "trust" them to self test, then I would suggest you replace them with conventional emergency lights, as if you constantly remove / reinstate the supply there is the vague possibility that you will "upset" the internal processor which is what runs all testing functions.
  15. Does the property have working smoke alarms on each level ? The "problem" with fire extinguishers is that even though they have printed usage instructions on them, in a panic most folk will not be able to effectively use a fire extinguisher, also unless you buy "service free" extinguishers you will need to have them serviced annually, there is also the problem of malicious use. If you still want to buy a fire extinguisher for your holiday let I would suggest you get maintenance free watermist extinguishers as it covers multiple "risks" Two would be a good idea, as then there will be one for "spare" The other question is, does your insurance company require you to have fire extinguishers in your holiday let? Safelincs can supply you with water mist extinguishers, please Click Here What fire extinguishers do you have in your home?
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