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green-foam

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Everything posted by green-foam

  1. For clarification purposes. Below are two pictures of the same light. (Not shown is the power-supply and battery) The light has a diameter of only 19 mm. It is two LED's in the same package. When "normal" the LED shows a "dim" Green light (As shown below) When the mains fails it shows a bright white light (As shown below) which lasts for a minimum of 3 hours
  2. For clarification purposes. This is a bulkhead emergency light with a RED LED to indicate it is charging. So long as the main light stays on for 3 hours or more when you test it (Once a year) there is no need to change it. This is a bulkhead emergency light with a Green LED to indicate it is charging. It too should be tested once a year to make sure the main light stays on for a minimum of 3 hours. All new bulkhead emergency lights have a green charging LED, but if yours has a RED LED, it only means it is old, it is NOT illegal, so long as it
  3. It is worth checking that you do not have another alarm (Smoke or carbon monoxide) nearby or in a drawer / top of a cupboard as beeping every 90 seconds does indicate low battery, but you have to change the battery in the correct device. Often there have been posts similar to yours and they post back saying they "found an old device hiding with a low battery" If it helps I have been called to more than one case where the smoke alarm is beeping, only to find it is the smoke alarm beeping, but not the suspected one, but one further along the hall that is beeping. (Not found one in a drawer,
  4. For future reference: CO2 is carbon dioxide and is found in CO2 fire extinguishers, also it is what makes drinks fizzy. CO is carbon monoxide and is often found in improperly burnt materials. (Wood, gas, oil, coal) Both are colourless gasses, carbon dioxide is heavier than air, and carbon monoxide is roughly the same density as air. Carbon monoxide detectors can be activated by other gases, even newly laid screed has been known to activate a CO detector. There is such a thing as a CO2 detector, they also detect other gasses and are used in some industries (They are als
  5. If the smoke alarm has been proven to have a problem, then there is only one thing you can do, change it, as there are no user serviceable parts inside.
  6. Is it a fire alarm or smoke alarm? (They are NOT the same)
  7. As AnthonyB has said, you have connected it to the switched live not the permanent live.
  8. It is at the end of its life, I would suggest you get a replacement ASAP Safelincs can supply you with a new CO alarm for around £17 Click here
  9. Since the cable was cut and has been repaired I would suggest you start there. You could also check the connections for each alarm are the same.
  10. Like you should have been, I was asleep at 02:00 so could not advise, I am assuming you have stopped it by now, all you can do to stop any smoke detector from chirping is change its battery. I don't expect you to have spare batteries in your house, although to be honest it is a good idea (and I do have new batteries around the house) you can take the detector down and take its battery out, then put the detector on the kitchen table, the idea being that you then change the battery and put the detector back, often I have visited houses and I see a backplate on the ceiling and no smoke detec
  11. I would assume you have a single LED emergency light, normally they are green, but in a power failure they change to white. (See example images) If it is showing white that means the unit has no mains, or it has failed, I would check that it has mains first. Below are two images of the same light. Yes it is one LED it has been developed for sole use as an emergency light. When the unit has mains it lights up as a not bright green, in a mains failure it changes to a bright cool white and like other emergency lights, it will last for 3 hours. They are small and unobtrusive and can di
  12. I am not there, can you be more specific please. What battery did you change, what "keeps going off" why did you decide to change the battery?
  13. Did you mean to ask, "can you sue them for selling them to you"? For that answer you would need to seek legal advice, which this forum can not give.
  14. If you could buy a fire safety label then "everyone" would do it just to say the item is safe, when indeed this may not be the case. You can however legally give it away providing you point out it has no fire safety label, or take it to the tip like everyone else does. It's a sad thing to do, but its down to liability at the end of the day.
  15. Both would have sounded as they are interlinked. Believe it or not, it's not uncommon for smoke alarms to false alarm (Although in theory they shouldn't, it does happen) Sadly there is not possible to say "do xyz and you will be fine" as it depends on why one went off. (Being interlinked, one will cause the other to activate) But you should check the age of the detectors, they should be changed when they are 10 years old, also if they have standby batteries, how old are they? You should also clean them once a year (Vacuum cleaner and the crevice tool if you have)
  16. I would suggest you "start again" and change the battery in one detector then switch the mains on, and repeat for each detector, it sounds like you have a battery / detector incompatibility problem. This is the easiest non technical way to find out, although somewhat tedious, and also check the age of all smoke detectors, the life span is 10 years.
  17. Make and model of your smoke alarm would help (As would a picture)
  18. As you had your windows open anything could have blown in (Carbon monoxide is colourless and odourless) and as it did not continue I would say it was a pocket of gas and nothing to worry about.
  19. green-foam

    Mrs

    Sorry, but you really need legal advice which this forum does not offer. 😐
  20. Since it is building control have told you what you must do, would it not be a good idea to ask them why? since anything else is only a guess.
  21. It may be the batteries are nearly flat and are only able to power the LED display but too flat to open the bolt. Have you tried changing the batteries?
  22. Most** extinguishers are designed to last 10 years. All but CO2* should be discharge tested stripped down, inspected and re filled every 5 years. The downside is that the cost of doing this is often more expensive than buying a new fire extinguisher Click here Older fire extinguishers are sometimes kept and used solely for "live fire" demonstration purposes, is not unusual for one of these extinguishers to fail to work properly. *CO2 extinguishers it is 10 years and they need to be stretch tested too. ** Britannia make some that are 10 year service free.
  23. You need a watermist extinguisher (as mention by Shawn 3 posts above yours.) Safelincs can supply water mist extinguishers, Click here
  24. I would say it depends on what is in the contract. From what you have said the original batteries were used and the new panel "does not like them" The question is were new batteries allowed for? I have often seen it where the panel was changed, not the battery because the customer did not want to pay for a new one. To any one reading this it does sound silly, but I have had people tell me to my face (in a polite manner) that the old battery is fine and they do not want me to change it, (I advise them the battery should be changed, but that they will be charged) and 3 guesses wh
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