green-foam

Combined alarms (CO and smoke) are used to "save space" so that you do not need to have two alarms mounted adjacent each other. When activated they will "pulse" differently according to what they have detected. This makes them no use in kitchens, as the fumes/smoke from everyday cooking can still set off the smoke alarm. Heat alarms are best for most kitchens

Which model of alarm is it? You also say it gives 3 chirps every few hours, but you also say you have 3 smoke alarms, do they all chirp at the same time, or is it just one? Switch the mains back on, as switching it off will only make matters worse, as they will now be running on battery only. How old are the smoke alarms, when did you last change the batteries in your smoke alarms? I should also mention that as you posted at 01:23 this is a public forum and most of us are asleep at that time, which is why you do not get an "instant" reply, but a reply as and when we are able.

If you are sure it is the base that is beeping (some do have a battery and electronics) then I suggest you take the base down. BUT are you sure it is the base as often it transpires there is another smoke alarm/co alarm hidden away, or sitting in a drawer nearby. Below is a copy of a post by "Spud" I was convinced the beep was coming from my downstairs smoke alarm. I switched off the relevant fuse in my fuse box, took the cover off the alarm (push in screwdriver and slide off, in case anyone is having problems), replaced the battery and was sure the base was beeping. I was wrong. It was actually coming from the upstairs alarm. It was only when I got frustrated and stood next to the upstairs alarm I could identify the true source of the sound. I took that down, removed battery, discharged the alarm by holding the button down (a very sad strangled final beep was emitted), replaced the battery and put it back up, then switched the fuse back on. So far, so good. I hope that helps someone- check your other alarms!

The green LED is on to indicate the detector has mains. The red LED flashes (Aprox) every 30/40 seconds to indicate that the detector is working as it should.

Please do not ask other posters a question, the reason being that they will often post a question and never be heard from again, the poster you are "asking" posted 2 years ago, never to be heard from again. Several questions for you. What is the make / model of your smoke alarm? How old is it? When did you last change its battery? When did you last clean it? Does it work when you press the test button? Have you had ANY electrical work carried out in the last 2 months? I ask these questions as I am not there, so I do not know the answers. Sometimes people assume that all the smoke alarms they have are all the same, they should be but sometimes they are not, that is why I ask you to check the make and model.

If it does not chirp when not connected to the base, then it could be caused by another device that is connected that has a nearly low battery. I would take all the other interconnected devices down, put the heat alarm back, then check the other devices battery age and put them back one by one.

Forgive me if I am in error, but you have already asked the same question earlier (See your reply from Anthony B Click here) but this time you seem to be asking how to do the job in terms of what you can or can not connect to a sounder. Most fire alarms nowadays are addressable, you would need to add an interface which is compatible with the fire panel, which is then connected to the appropriate alarm loop and the door release is connected to the interface, then you tell the fire panel when you want the interface to operate. (The panel will also monitor the interface.) Fire alarms have become specialist, long gone are the days with twin and earth to call points and pyro for mains sounders.

Confirming some facts: Which model are your smoke alarms? When were the batteries last changed? Did you look around all of the smoke alarms when they activated? Were there any visible signs or smells of anything unusual? How did you try to stop them? Is this only the second time you have had a false alarm? Did you time how long they sounded for? as going off twice in two weeks is not Was anything happening outside the property? Builders, large delivery lorry, bonfire? What time of day (Roughly) were the activations? Were any windows open? Have they been silent since? Do you test them on a regular basis? Only asking to establish some facts.

It has been known. But in the UK we don't often use domestic ionisation smoke alarms

It would appear that Ajax are a "new" burglar alarm manufacturer who also make a combined smoke/heat/CO detector for use with their system (As opposed to stand alone.) and they do NOT make fire alarms, also nothing they offer is wired. There are better options out there. I would guess the "Online event" will be a sales / recruiting pitch

I presume you mean suite? It should have had a permanent label sewn to it somewhere, if this is no longer there, then if you are a professional seller/retailer then no you can not sell it. If you are a private individual, it will be up to the buyer if they wish to buy it or not. If they do not want it, it will have to be disposed of at the dump as charity shops will NOT accept it if it does not have a permanently attached "fire label"

So long as the fire alarm complies to the regulations it is possible to use any brand of fire alarm. The most popular fire alarm for non domestic alarms is made by EMS. If on the other hand you mean alarms for domestic premises then they can have radio interlinked devices (No actual fire panel) the most popular is made by Aico.

What exactly is happening in your situation, and what is the make and model of your smoke alarm and how old is it, and when did you last change its battery?

This is a fire safety forum, not a legal forum. I can only suggest you seek advice from a solicitor etc.

If the alarm indicated low battery, I would suspect it needs a new battery. Since the other CO alarm remained silent, and sounded when you pressed the test button, this would indicate a problem (Low battery?) with the first CO alarm. A few questions. How old are they both? When did you last change the batteries? What is the make and model of each CO alarm? I should also point out that CO2 is what makes fizzy drinks fizzy, it is also what CO2 fire extinguishers are filled with. Carbon Monoxide is written as CO

Would it not be an idea to ask the course provider exactly what it does and does not cover?

Only a guess, water damage.

No. If you did then you would not know if it is powered or not, which is the function of the green LED

The labels would have complied at the time, but it is up to the charity shop if they will take them or not, so I suggest you ask them and find out.

Since no one has yet replied......? (Just my opinion) AFDD's only became a "must" in March 22, anything installed prior to then will NOT require an AFDD To confirm a site has AFDD's you will need to open the consumer unit lid (That's lid, not cover) Should you really be going that far? What will you then do if none are installed? As I said prior to March they need not have any, so your first problem would be you need to establish when the consumers unit was installed. Suppose it was installed last week in a care home and it has no AFDD's all you can do is point out it should have them but doesn't have them when you looked. I would also suggest that a lot of places will not have them purely due to cost, one single AFDD costs £100* which is ten times as much as an RCBO also anywhere that "must" have AFDD's will require one for each circuit of sockets*, and they are known to NOT WORK 100% of the time on final ring circuits*, and since most sockets are on ring circuits........... Give it another 5+ years and the price comes down then yes, but until then....... * I checked on manufacturer's website.

It would be worth making sure the devices are clean and dust free. You should also test them to make sure they are working, another thing to check is how old are they? and when did you last change the batteries.

Not wanting to be pedantic, but this is a Fire Safety forum, not a building safety forum. I can only suggest you ask the building safety regulator/local council/Building control

..............and the burglar alarm activates.

Yes, too expensive, and creates more problems than it would solve.