Fire Doors and Accessories

Hi, Could anyone advise whether the front doors to two flats need to be fire rated doors. The property is a terraced, brick built house converted into two flats - upstairs and downstairs. The front doors for both flats sit in a small brick porch. There are no other communal areas and the porch is open fronted, i.e. there is no door or windows to the outer wall. The doors have glass in them and a glass panel above them. Because they are standard upvc doors and right next to each other the property management company is now saying they should be changed to fire doors. Just seems excessive for porch that you cross in two steps. Does this sound necessary to you?

Hi There, I work in a building that was built approximately 20 years ago. The existing fire doors have intumescent strips and close automatically, but I cannot see any CE marks on the hinges, which lead me to think they are not fire rated. What are the legal requirements from the companies perspective? Do they need to upgrade all the hinges to comply with the law or as the doors are existing is this not needed until they are replaced?

Hi, A new fire door has been installed and a maglock bracket has been cut into the top of the frame so it can reach the armature plate on the door. Has this compromised the fire door? The door guys did state to only drill 8mm holes into the frame . Thanks

Is this likely to be a slither of old intumescent material, asbestos, or both on these old doors. I understand they used to put asbestos in the core of doors, this door is potentially as old as 1988. Anyone else come across this, seems to be just behind the lippings, apart from on the top where it's exposed, perhaps from when the door was shot in, or made this way.

I live in a block of flats, six stories high, have been told to remove my key safe from my door frame. ( permission was granted last year for me to have a key safe installed beside my front door ) Fire Safety Act 2021 was quoted.

Hi when fitting a new smaller width fire door into an existing opening 10mm max each side what is the best method to fill a gap where the old door frame went into the plaster sorry for the poor drawing but if red is the wall with a 10mm dip in it where the existing frame went in and blue is the new door frame would a plywood strip (yellow) be ok to fit to the wall (10mm less is width either side of the frame) and then mastic sealed flush to frame

I am having a carpenter fit a new door to my attic conversion and he mentioned it had to be a fire door but that it also needs have a perko. I have ordered the door but am unsure of whether or not i legally need a perko? can someone advise? Thanks

Is it possible to make my solid wood 1930s door frames smaller for modern 30min fire doors, without having to take out the originalframes.

I am hoping someone can give some advice here, as I can't find any anywhere else! I am fully aware that gaps around modern fire doors should be 3mm (+/- 1mm) and this is because the intumescent strip and smoke seal are rated for gaps that size. However, I conduct a lot of fire risk assessments for residential blocks of flats built in the 1970s and 1980s where the CP3 standard applied, requiring 25mm rebates. The requirement for that standard was the door to be flush against the rebate, to prevent smoke and fire from getting past. In accordance with the LGA guidelines, and also BS 9794 (Clauses 9 and 10.4) I am happy to accept these doors in principle, including the two …

A BM Trada FD30 fire door with combined seals requires a head frame stop of a minimum depth of 12mm. Is this correct, as I cannot find test certificates on BMT doors?

Hi, It's my first post here but I've been a long time reader - I wonder if somebody could clarify a matter for me. On one of the sites I'm involved in, there are numerous nominal fire doors which are deemed semi-critical to the fire strategy of the building (I say semi because of the other measures in the building which have improved MoE and early detection and warning (e..g over L3). These are clearly very old existing doors built way before BS 476 and 8214. They do not have any certification labels or plugs to confirm they have been tested for fire resistance in a furance. They are all 44mm thick and the majority do not have any intumescent seals or grooves to support s…

Are fire doors required for the entrance of ground floor flats if the the flats do not have a staircase and therefore do not share a common area with the flats above. We have two ground floor flats, both of which have patio doors leading to the garden. They are the only flats that share the common entrance as the flats above have a separate communal entrance and staircase. The flats were built in the 1980s.

We have just put an offer in on a 1900 terraced house. The stairwell leading up to the top floor curves round and currently does not have a door on it. It is being used as a bedroom/study at the moment but we would like to get a friend in as a lodger (to help pay the mortgage) Would the new door have to be a fire door to meet regulations? Can you get fire doors for this setup? We know we will have to move the radiator Thanks

We are a building contractor and need to know if there is any certification or registration required by us before we can install fire door. Can we self certificate our own work or is this done by a different organisation.

I need advice on how to fit the new fire door casing 6" / 150mm around the stair case. How much of the door frame can be cut at the bottom around the second step on the stair case without jeopardising the fire rating of the door set? if you look at the pictures you will see how the original door casing was wrapped around the stair tread and stair string, on the hinge side it's going over the stair string and on the latch side the door casing is cut around the stair string. Can the new fire door casing be fit like the original door casing was fitted? Or Can the new fire door frame be cut around the stair tread so not to damage the second step by leaving 70mm of the fire d…

I'm interested to know what everyone is using to measure perimeter gaps on fire doors. I've seen many inspectors using stepped brake pad gauges (such as the Hilka gauge set attached), while others use feeler gauges, dedicated fire door gap gauges, or calipers. My main question is regarding accuracy when checking against the BS 8214 recommendation of 2-4 mm. For those using stepped gauges: How do you determine whether a gap is 4 mm or 5 mm when the gauge jumps in 1 mm increments? If the 4 mm blade fits but the 5 mm blade doesn't, do you record it as compliant? Do you apply any pressure when inserting the gauge, or should it slide freely under its own weight? I'm interested…

Hello I need some advice in relation to fire doors. I am an owner of a flat in a block of flats and our managing agent is saying that we need to replace all the fire doors in the communal areas across the whole development the cost of which is going to be enormous. The age of the flats and the fire doors is 18yrs old A Fire risk assessment and a fire door survey have been done but these specify that repairs are needed with a small number of doors that need replacing. The managing agent is pushing hard under sec 20 to replace all the fire doors and has got estimates from contractors My self and other owners feel that the managing agent has not given us any evidence in supp…

We have a fire exit that is often in use to access the rear of the building. As it is a food manufacturing site pest control is essential so we have been looking at solutions that we are told are fire safe, however I'm unsure if they would meet regs or not. I've attached an example. Would this meet fire regulations?

Hi all, Hoping someone might be able to advise on this one, I'm getting mixed messages regarding Oil based vs Water based Paints and Varnishes on Fire doors and their frames. We've got existing varnished doors, white painted frames (notional FD30s) in a mid 80s development which I'm guessing are finished with oil based/polyurethane varnish/paint that we're looking to repaint/varnish Seeing some info saying that doors and frames have to be finished in water based products in order to comply with regs which kind of makes sense, particularly for a brand new installation where you're starting from scratch, but doesn't make a lot of sense to me if you're going over existing oi…

Hi again all, back to the hive mind for advice and guidance. We've got a couple of notional/nominal FD30 (soon to be FD30S with the addition of intumescent smoke seals) flat entrance doors that need re-lipping as they've been planed below 6mm in the past. We're looking to trim them down and add 8mm hardwood lipping before rebating to take the 15x4mm intumescent smoke seals. My question is a three parter; 1. I'm assuming that the 6mm minimum is for the lipping itself and you can rebate the intumescent strips into that without having to allow and extra 4mm for the rebate (i.e. making the minimum 10mm in this case)? 2. I'm getting differing info on what glue …

Hi, I've been asked to advise a client on the following scenario and am struggling to provide an answer that either I or the client is happy with. The client owns a flat in converted three-storey terrace house. The house was converted around 20 years ago. The entrance door to the common areas is at ground level at the front of the buidling. The front door to the neighbouring house is next to this door (about 50cm to the side). The neighbouring house is a single three-storey dwelling. A recent T1 FRA of the converted house has just been produced and recommended that the front door to both the converted house and the terrace house be replaced with FD30 fire doors due to the…

Please can you advise where I can find information concerning when it is a requirement to have door closers. Closers have been removed in our apartment and I can see no legal reason why I would need to replace them. Can you advise?

We have just had some major renovations done at one of our offices including new rooms being built etc. One of these is a store room, inside is a mains distribution board, but i am shocked that the door is NOT a fire door. My question is - should it be? The room stores cardboard stock and spare furniture

Hello, I don't know if you can advise me but - recently moved into a flat in a purpose built block and all the internal doors in the flat are very heavy, (presumably fire doors) which will not stay open or ajar and close too heavily behind you, causing potential injury to hand or legs which might be in the way. Can these doors be modified in some way to become 'normal'doors ?They appear to have a 3rd chain like hinge in the middle. Thanks

I have fitted 1st floor fire, strips sides,top and bottom. I am now told that I need pads under the hinges, why? What their purpose??? It's all over kill....