Neil ashdown

The Intumescent Fire Seals Association recommend that no more that five coats of oil based paint should be applied over intumescent edge seals. But none on smoke seals due to the detrimental effect of any paints to the brush/blade. Contact ifsa.org.uk for information.

Before the use of intumescent edge seals fire door tests were carried out to early versions of the BS476 test. The test preceeding the 1987 Part 22 test, we still use today, was BS 476 Part 8 of 1972 and door leaf edge to door frame gaps were 3mm without using intumescent edge seals. There has never been an absolute requirement for a 3mm (or indeed 4mm max gap) but test results have been successful using that gap on a first principles basis. However, a very limited number of fire doors are permitted with larger gaps. So two things to bear in mind: 1) Where smoke seals are necessary these are sometimes fitted to the edge of the door leaf and will usually be effective at 2mm to 4mm. But there would be a gap that could be exploited by cold smoke if the gap is larger. Where compression type smoke seals are used to seal between the rebate stop and the face of the door leaf, this larger gap should not cause a problem. 2) BS 8214: 2016 section 9.5.2, without making explicit reference to intumescent seals, states that a typlical gap to achieve good fire performance is between 2mm and 4mm. Therefore, it is possible that larger gaps may adversely affect fire performance. These gaps refer to test conditions though.

Keep stock of say 8mm or 12mm x 46mm suitable hardwood (such as AW Oak or Saplele) 2100mm lengths. Cut original lipping away from the door leaf, replace with new using a urea formaldehyde based adhesive and plane-in as necessary. etc. Be aware of the effect of such remedial works on the product certification for the door.

Assuming there are two or more separate flats in the building, the entrance doors to each flat will need to be fire doors that are self-closing and have smoke seals. Rising butt hinges are not a suitable substitute for a self-closing device, choose one that is BS EN1154 power size 3 or greater. The council may ask you to change the hinges too and repair the door?

Building Regulations are a good starting point: Refer to Table C1 on page 168 of Approved Document B https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/media/67d17064a005e6f9841a1d50/Approved_Document_B_volume_2_Buildings_other_than_Dwellings_2019_edition_incorporating_2020_2022_and_2025_amendments_collated_with_2026_and_2029_amendments.pdf

Possibly not. It is a myth that hinges for all fire doors necessarily need to be made from stainless steel and CE or UKCA marked in accordance with the relevant BS EN 1935 declaration of performance. The myth started because under product certification schemes the hinge specifications for timber-based fire doors state that hinges should be marked thus and fire door inspectors often appear not to recognise the fact that some fire doors are not manufactured under the scope of such schemes and that CE marking only became mandatory in the UK from 1st July 2013, under the Construction Products Regulations. According to current UK Building Regulations (Approved Document B Appendix C Fire Doorsets) hinges for fire doors must be made from materials having a minimum melting point of 800 deg C. The melting point of Brass is commonly stated as between 900 and 930 deg C. So long as the hinges are in good working condition, fitted correctly with suitable fixings and without defects that may adversely affect the peformance of the fire door they are acceptable and should not need to be replaced. If they are found to be defective they can be replaced with fire rated minimum Grade 11 CE or UKCA marked hinges to BS EN 1935, which of course are also available in Brass.

It will be necessary to contact the partitioning company for data. This is a case of the lack of accessible 'as-built' documentation being a barrier to confirming compliance. As Mike says, these might not be intended to perfom as fire doors so consult the most recent fire risk assessment for information.

For timber based fire doors. The usual method to reduce a perimeter gap between the edge of the door leaf and the reveal of the door frame rebate is as follows: 1) loosen the frame to wall fixings and pack behind the door frame jamb using timber wedges to achieve the required size gap. Then tighten the fixings and make good the fire-stopping at the frame to wall linear gap. OR 2) remove the lipping from the door leaf edge and fix a suitable new lipping of the correct thickness to achieve the required gap size and using the correct adhesive, usually Urea Formaldehyde based. Plane-in as necessary. Just to add that accepted lipping thickness is usually 6mm minimum and 18mm maximum for FD30. Be aware that method 2) would possibly void the product certifcation for the door.

I believe a door self-closing device to be essential, depending on the door location, and that this part of the "improvements" should be done urgently. For the hinges, it depends on their condition, if they fail to suport the weight of the door then they should be replaced as a matter of urgency. You may find this and interesting read https://peteapps.substack.com/p/the-door-to-flat-136 Regarding the gap, it depends how much too large it is, and does it affect the effectiveness of the smoke seals?

Before you do anything, talk to the technical guys at the door manufacturer. Often they have more than one form of evidence of performance so it's sometimes (not always) the case that a 10mm threshold gap would be permissable.

You could slow down the self-closing speed to allow more time for transfer of air between compartments. Fins are more forgiving than brushes in terms of resistance between surfaces (door edges and door frames) but do not mix brushes and fins on the same door. Or you could try a smoke/acoustic seal fitted to the door frame on the rebate stop instead. Lorient LAS700si but there may be others. Obviously you will still need an intumescent fire-only seal.

Yes, making the trench wider would mean the fixing screws through the door frame head and into the end of the jamb could be retained. Then, any residual trench-gap made by cutting the door frame head can be made good by filling.

To answer your question it would be necessary to colnsult the certiifcation or other evidence of product performance for the fire door. Many standard timber-based fire doors have third-party certification and such work would cause the certifcation to become void. But if you have fabricated the door from a Fire Door Blank it may be possible to cut the aperture and install the glazed panel by following the relevant Technical Manual.

By cutting through the screws you would be disregarding the door manufacturers installation instructions. Therefore the product performance certification would most likely become void. However, without removing the complete door assembly you may not be able to adjust the gaps. I would discuss the matter with your client and/or their Fire Risk Assessor before proceeding.

BS 8214: 2016 Timber-based Fire Door Assemblies - Code of Practice recommends 20mm as the maximum linear gap width, using mineral fibre and intumescent sealant. Therefore, it would be necessary to refer to the specific evidence of fire resistance performance, using those materials and products, to support a gap of 30mm

The best resource for fire door hinges is the Code of Practice - Hardware for Fire & Escape Doors at https://www.firecode.org.uk/Code_of_Practice_hardware_for_fire_and_escape_doors_issue_5.pdf Page 26 paragraph 2.3.13 deals with intumescent protection for fitting to butt hinges.

Check the scope of the available evidence of fire resistance performance for the particular door / door-set. If, having done that, you believe that the necessary works required to enable correct installation might compromise the performance of the door, then its apropriate to check with the door manufacturer accordingly.

Yes it is possible to resolve the issue without ordering a different size door. But the method used depends on whether the door is composite or timber. If its composite the wall should be extended to the same (or greater) specification as existing. If its a timber door the wall aperature may be lined or the door frame head thickness extended using the same materials as the new door frame. Linings / additions should be full width and continuous in length with no gaps and/or voids. Joints should be tight and fire rated linear gap sealing to be in accordance with BS 8214: 2016 requirements for timber doors and manufactuers certification for composite.

The person / contractor should be able to demonstrate sufficient competence to be able to complete the job. Make sure they have the necessary SKEB, see https://www.citb.co.uk/standards-and-delivering-training/training-standards/competence-frameworks/ If you are unsure you could appoint an independant inspector to sign-off the work https://afdi.org.uk/

For most fire doors, the performance certification requires the wall to be at least 70mm thick. I am yet to see one where such a thin wall is suitable.

Yes it can, but you may need to make the stop lath wider to get a secure fixing.

This type of composite fire resisting door was popular in the early 2000s. Is the self-closer a chain type, fitted to the hanging edge of the door and hanging jamb of the door frame? Many were. Could be a Birtley or IG door but unlikely that the manuufacturer would still hold data after this length of time. You could try contacting https://www.acdm.co.uk/ The Association of Composite Door Manufacturers, if you send them images of the doors they may be able to help. You may find Para 62.17 of the HM Gov guidance at https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/media/65e9def95b6524001af21bcc/Fire_Safety_in_Purpose_Built_Blocks_of_Flats_Guide-update.pdf helpful in terms of Notional Fire Doors.

The stop lath should not be removed and replaced by a door-closer slide arm track. Check that the budget self-closer you are using has fire performance certification for use in the paralell arm cofiguaration, some come with a push-side kit but even so are only suitable for fire doors in projecting arm (pull side) cofiguaration. Check this out, this company has a few instructional films available. Contact them for more info and with any questions. They also run training sessions.

Yes you do, because your flat should be a fire compartment and so should your neighbour's flat be a fire compartment - but separate to yours. That's why you both need your own fire door.

Best to contact your local Building Control office for advice. My experience, having received different comments from different LBC offices.