green-foam

What was the colour of the LED before you noticed it is red? Do you have any other fittings with "SEC/M3/8F" on them, if so what colour are their LED's I have no idea what "SEC/M3/8F" is, and google shows nothing, does the light have anything else on it?

The base is somewhere to terminate / loop in / loop out cables. It has no sounder as there is no need. You can get a sounder base for fire alarms, never seen one for a smoke alarm.

A couple of questions. 1) If it is inside how will it be charged? (The sun is not bright enough indoors) 2) As it is an emergency / exit light what will tell it to illuminate? (If you run a cable, it may as well be a mains fed light)

There is another brand available but again it is battery operated. Kidde also make a smoke and CO alarm that speaks, so you know what it has detected, and again its battery operated.

You have several options to dispose of old fire extinguishers. 1) Find a re cycling centre that will take them (Not just your local tip, although some will take them) 2) If they are discharged and small you can put them in the normal waste. 3) If they are still full there are specialist companies who will take them away for processing. 4) Advertise them on an auction website for COLLECTION ONLY. There is an interest in old extinguishers.

I presume you mean smoke alarm? (There is a great deal of difference between a smoke alarm and a fire alarm) I would suggest you install an optical smoke alarm which you interlink with other smoke alarms in your house. If you already have interlinked smoke alarms in your house, you will need another one which is compatible with what you already have. If you do not have any smoke alarms in the house now would be a good time to install interlinked alarms. The reason being, If a fire should develop in the loft you may not hear the smoke alarm for a while, where as if you have interlinked alarms you will know within seconds since they will all sound. Safelincs can supply you with interlinked smoke alarms

I think you need to clarify what is there. If the property has "domestic smoke alarms" these can not be "connected to the fire brigade" If the property has a "Fire alarm" Then this can be "connected to the fire brigade" However, I should point out that no alarm is connected directly to the fire brigade, instead it calls an Alarm Receiving Centre who will if appropriate call the fire brigade. In order to have this, the fire alarm must be up to the relevant standards and have a maintenance contract. Would it not be up to the new owners which insurance company they have and therefore up to the new insurance company what the fire alarm does or doesn't do.

It would depend on the company concerned as for what is and is not included in the service. You would have to ask them.

Does not sound like it is a smoke alarm, since it makes a noise every ten minutes. I would suggest being very quiet and listening for the noise and "follow it". Yes it is easy to say, but it can not be a smoke alarm with no power. I wonder is it an old mobile phone?

Following on from what Tom says, I should like to point out that although ideally an electrician should install the smoke alarms, not all electricians are Part P registered. So although any electrician can install them, not all electricians can issue a certificate that says the work complies with Part P.

Thinking out loud. Tom, what if the extinguishers in question are stored pressure. The engineer could not take anything apart, there for has no need to change the anti tampering tag.

It would depend on the clarity of the glass, the angle of the sun and any combustible materials near said float. Can you not move it if you are that worried.

If there is an electrical failure after the 3 hour test, and all the lights passed the test what will you do? The batteries need 24 hours to fully recharge, you can not really stay in a building for 24 hours watching .......... Ideally the test should be carried out at a time when the building will be empty for the next 24 hours.

Safelincs can supply you with smoke alarms, I would suggest the mains operated, interlinked with battery back up, made by Kidde Click here for more information. The kidde ones have the advantage that you can connect up to 24 units, so if you need to expand, you can. Also if you use Kidde Slick or Firex smoke alarms you can also use the Kidde hush button https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OOlCMA2ZOQM

I honestly think that it is a typo. That would be some blind that is 200 m wide. But I have to agree with Tom regarding covering the fire exit. Think about it, if there is a fire, people panic, and will not see that there is a blind covering an exit, also the blind could get in peoples way. and if the fire exits are "to be used by children" how does everyone else get out?

Would it not be a good idea to actually look at the fire alarm panel first?

I would ask why would you want to do that? Emergency lights are to provide light when the main supply fails, a blue light is not going to be easy to see by.

Andrew, I notice you said Did you know that you are supposed to change smoke alarms every 10 years? Perhaps its time you changed yours? Safelincs can supply new ones Click here

I googled and found THIS

Just a thought. Why don't you ask the BCO to see what he wants? My reasoning is that if a reply said get sign "A" and the BCO said he wants sign "B" the BCO will not be happy and you will have wasted money on a sign the BCO does not want.

Only asking. What do YOU think is wrong with having ball catches and door closers on fire doors.

As Harry said, if you really want to test a smoke alarm use the spray he suggests, a match does not create enough smoke to activate a smoke alarm, and burning anything is very dangerous and also smelly. If you do use the spray, do follow the instructions.

I would say its vaguely possible for it to go off because of the heat, but more than likely because you put it above the woodburner. Put it back in the same place (for a short while) and see does it go off, if it does your woodburner is probably leaking CO

Fire extinguishers should be checked annually. Every 5 years, all but CO2 extinguishers should be discharged tested, checked and refilled, CO2 it is 10 years at which time it should also be stretch tested. I should also point out that as an extinguisher gets older, it will become more expensive to service and may be un-economical to do so, since a new extinguisher from safelincs CLICK HERE is cheaper.

There are a couple of problems with any type of adhesive fixing. 1) When you have to take the fixed item down, you find it is still stuck to the surface and will not move without damaging the surface to which it is fixed. 2) Any self adhesive tape etc will after time "dry out" and have no adhesion. I would suggest that you use "hollow wall" fixings, which you can get at any D.I.Y, store. I personally like these, Click here In your case, when its time to change the detectors you can undo the bolts (With a screwdriver) take the detector down, put the bolts through the new detector and tighten the bolts up, securing the new detector. No damage caused to anything.