green-foam

First one that springs to mind is the nest protect, as sold by safelincs, Click here

There are several D.I.Y. "stand alone" door alarms that are available (any diy superstore) but in this instance i would suggest they would be pointless since your neighbours could easily turn them off or even remove them. If you decided to get an alarm company in to install an alarm on one door, it raises more questions, who would pay for it, who gave you permission for them to install it, who is going to turn it on, and those same people could always turn it off, again I would say in this case an alarm is not the way to proceed.

You need to check the supply to see if there is mains there. The other thing is what happens if you swap smoke alarms? does the one with no green light now have a green light? and the one that had a green light have no green light?

I have just had a brief read of the instructions, as far as I can tell, no green light means there is no mains supply to the detector, although you said you have switched it off and on are you sure it is still on or that a fuse has not blown? I would switch the mains off again take the detectors down and check the connection to the "plug" for each detector, make sure there are no loose wires. It does strike me as odd, that both have no green light....................unless there is no mains.

I believe all Paul has done is to change the Halogen lamp to an LED lamp, so the fitting is the same as was when it was fitted 16 years ago. I can not find when you HAD to fit fire proof downlights, all I did find was the building regulation for this is Part B, and this seems to have come into existence in 2010* There is also a misconception that ALL downlights must be fire proof, this is not the case, they must be fire proof if there is sleeping accommodation above where the downlights are installed. So if you were to install downlights in a loft conversion since there can be no sleeping accommodation above it would be acceptable to install non fire proof downlights. But most would install them anyway as the cost difference is now minimal (And I would guess this is where the misconception has evolved from.) * That is my "problem" I can not find anything that predates 2010 (After the original lights were installed) but I am interested to see what others say (Tom?)

It depends on make / model of your smoke alarm as to what it should or should not do, you do not say this information. If it is just battery operated it will have no green light and it is normal for the red light to flash, if it is mains operated most have a green light that should be constantly on to indicate mains is present.

Gordon sorry to point this out but your "guess" is wrong and Tom's statement is correct. Low voltage (as Tom mentioned) is anything that is less than 1000v ac, even if there is 3 phase in the block you live this will only be 415v ac. As 240v ac (The voltage we have in our homes) is considered by the electrical industry to be "Low Voltage" there is no requirement to have a sign which says "High Voltage" or "Danger of death" since only authorised persons should have access to the cupboard, and those that are authorised know what they can and more importantly can not do.

To add to what Harry says, I would also ask have you got a working smoke detector near the door? if not safelincs can supply those too Click here I would suggest an optical one. I would also suggest that you buy two fire extinguishers, hopefully you will never need to use either, but if you do use one you still have the other one as back up. Once used / partially used an extinguisher will loose all its remaining pressure over a short time, and needs to be refilled, but with the cost being so low for a new extinguisher, its often not worth it, so some times a bigger extinguisher is not always the best.

I would guess its back up battery is too old. Smoke alarms should be changed every 10 years, how old is yours?

Low battery is usually indicated by a "chirp" once every 60 seconds, if it were low battery I would not have expected it to stop. I have to ask, when was the last time you cleaned the smoke detector? and out of curiosity what brand of battery have you been using?, and how old is the detector?

As Harry said, its something else, it can not be cables / wires since they do not beep.

I agree with Tom, Carbon monoxide is generally considered to be the same density as air, but since it is often hot, it rises. I would guess (and it is only a guess) that your electrician is either confused or misunderstanding about carbon monoxide, allow me. Carbon monoxide is the same density as air and so it generally sits there. Its chemical formula in words is CO Carbon dioxide is heaver than air and will always fall to the lowest point that it can. Its chemical formula in words is CO2 I often find that people do not realise this fact and will often call a carbon monoxide detector a carbon dioxide detector or label its supply as "CO2 detector" when it should be "CO detector" I am guessing your electrician thinks that any carbon monoxide produced will "fall through the gap in the loft hatch" and activate the alarm. As I said carbon monoxide will not do that but carbon dioxide would fall through the gap. (But not set off a carbon monoxide alarm) Carbon dioxide is what makes fizzy drinks fizzy. And is only lethal in large volumes Carbon monoxide is the product of improper combustion and is lethal in minute volumes.

I would take that further and say anyone who is NOT a fire alarm engineer gets a "Frosty reply"

If you could add non addressable call point to the system (I don't think you can) would that not defeat the whole idea of it being addressable? (You would not know which call point had been operated)

I have to ask, what is this refillable air cylinder for, and what regulator and hoses have you got (what are they for)

I would suggest this is more of a legal matter than anything else. My thought would be to ask them to look at your device and take it from there / seek legal advice.

Poking wires back into the ceiling? what would happen if there was a fire? Nothing because you had poked the wires back in the ceiling, Do as Harry suggests change just the detectors and have peace of mind

I for one do not believe it is your alarm making a noise. I am suggesting it is something entirely different which may or may not be supplied by the mains (I would say its not) The other suggestion would be to ask is there a loft space? and if so have you looked / listened in there.

I would be inclined to agree with Harry, but for similar reasons. The base has no sounder, but even a smoke detector does not have a "timer" as such, and as you say it happens at the same time once a day, that implies a timer of some description and what better timer / sounder than an alarm clock or maybe an old mobile phone, in a drawer maybe?

Without further information I can not see how any one can be of help to you. Information such as make / brand of light Is this light in a fitting or is a it "Just a huge single LED?" Has anyone been working on the lights Anything else you may think relevant

Stand alone battery smoke alarms will continue to sound until the air is clear from smoke or the battery runs flat. If you can not reach one that has activated for a known reason I can only suggest you "waft" something slightly solid (Folded newspaper at worst) under it to dissipate the smoke.

I would have to ask, are they "fire alarms" or are they "smoke alarms" I will guess you mean smoke alarms, the interesting thing is, you say they only went off at night, and several nights in a row. From that I have to ask would any one have been down stairs, may be making toast and forgot it and it got burnt? The other question is since you first asked your question, has it happened again? If the answer is no, I would say that what ever was causing the smoke alarm to activate is no longer there. If the answer is yes, next time it happens go straight to the detector and look at it , see if you can see / smell anything "odd"

Thing is..............the job has probably been done by now as it was asked back in 2016

To me your question seems some what vague, could you explain more? Audibility test of what? How would you know if this audible "thing" is audible enough? What is this audible thing your customer needs a certificate for?

If it helps a 6kg lasts around 16 seconds.