Safelincs
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Posts posted by Safelincs
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Hi
If the alarm beeos every 45 seconds try this
1. Check the fuse for the power circuit for that alarm
2. Gently vacuum around the alarm
3. Replace the battery
4. Have a qualified electrician inspect the wiring for the alarm
5. Contact the manufacturer for further advice or return to the retailer if within warranty period
In case you have to replace here a link to the BRK 660MBX.
Harry
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Hi, when the alarm is removed, the base plate design is such that there is very little possibility to come in contact with the electrical elements. With the unit being on the ceiling there is also little chance of a child poking a screw driver into the alarm base plate. Maybe you could temporarily cover the base with a piece of cardbard while you are waiting for your new alarm.
Harry
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Hi Craig,
to question 1)
The easichange alarms are 'modern' smoke alarms with re-chargeable lithium longlife batteries as backup and not just a re-production of the old Ei150 series alarms. As far as the visible footprint of the old units is concerned, you receive with the easichange pack also a cover plate to hide the old marks where they are not covered by the replacement alarm.
to question 2)
You are correct about the wiring: brown is live, white is interconnection, blue is neutral, and there’s another blue wire that forms a loop on the plug which works as the battery activation / deactivation. Of course we still recommend that installation / replacement is done by a qualified electrician.
Harry
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Hi Krystal,
if the zip tie is designed so that it breaks easily when the door is opened, then this is common practice to detect abuse of fire exits.
Harry
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Hi Mark, if the alarm is over 10 years old, it sadly needs replacing. You can fit a genuine EI replacement alarm without an electrician, though.
Harry
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Hi, indoors you should not use powder extinguishers at all due to risk of inhalation and obfuscation. However, don't go for 9ltr foam, as the weight is too high for elderly people handling the extinguisher. I would go for 6ltr water mist (with de-ionised water to ensure that the extinguisher can be used on electrical equipment).
Not entirely sure what you mean with a counter room?
Harry
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Hi, especially with having open flames it would be highly advisable to have extinguishers handy. Your insurance and any court would regard it as ill advised to have no extinguishers at all when you are using open flame! If you are concerned about staff capability you can book short extinguisher training courses.
Harry
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Hi Alice, there are numerous ways for the different smoke alarm systems to be connected to an external building, eg garage. As long as the distance to the garage is less than let's say 20-30m the easiest option is to replace one of your internal mains powered smoke alarms with the radio interlinked version of that product family and fit another rf model (of the same product family) in the garage. Can you please send a photo or description of your current alarms and I will recommend the extension model you need.
Harry
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Hi, I would totally dismiss powder in this situation. The reduction in visibility and the risk of inhalation when used indoors is just too big.
I would recommend water mist extinguishers (with de-ionised water), which can be used on these risk, including the electrical risks (de-ionised water does not conduct electricity).
Harry
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Hi Beth
The red light flashing every second, even when the alarm is silenced, indicates that it thinks there is smoke present at all times. As you say they have been vacuumed so it shouldn’t be a dust problem. That leaves two possibilities:
1. The alarm was installed in or too close to the wrong type of room, like a kitchen or garage, and the sensor has been contaminated by fumes and residues that a vacuum cleaner won’t remove.
2. The alarm is simply faulty and will need replacing under warranty.
Harry
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Hi Max
You are right, the 285 panic bar for double doors is the correct solution for rebated double doors. After a bit more digging I also found out that there is actually an accessory to achieve the hold-back/dogging functionality. The Exidor 299 allows the retrofitting of a holdback. Please see below.
If you are interested, I we can get you a quote. Please direct message me.
Harry
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Hi Max, could you please upload a photo? I can't quite understand your concern regards rebated door. Obviously you will have one leading leaf. The hold-back feature is integral to the push bar system.
Harry
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Hi Max
Yes, there is such a solution. The Exidor 284 panic bar for double doors
- has a hold back (aka dogging feature) which allows the bolts to be set in the withdrawn position allowing access without key from inside and outside.
- can be used with a key operated outside access device Exidor 302
- will, of course, always open fromthe inside even when locked
Any questions, please let me know
Harry
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Hi Dave
If there is no Green LED it looks as if its failed on Mains Power. It could be a loose connection or its tripped at the fuse. The RED LED does flash every 40 seconds as a self-test.
Harry
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Hi Abi, you might want to consider free-swing door closers. These allow fire doors to be opened just like normal doors (no resistance) and will stay open in any position. They will, of course, close should a fire occur. The free-swing door closers are either wired to a fire alarm panel or listen out for the sound of a fire alarm.
Harry
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Hi Steve, what alarm did you use to replace the Ei151TL?
Harry
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Hi
if they have not been refilled in that time the short answer is no.
Harry
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Hi Jon
The seals you bought are not suitable for the bottom of fire doors, as they are only designed for the sides and top of the fire door. You need to install either surface-mounted or rebated fire door drop-down seals.
Harry
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Hi Amanda
I would need the brand and model number of your alarm, please (or a photo). It is unusual that mains powered alarms should beep once they have been removed from the base. Are you sure that it is not a different alarm in the room causing the alarm, eg a carbon monoxide alarm? Of course you did mention that the alarm set off others at some point, which speaks against a battery powerd carbon monoxide alarm.
If there was a lot of renovating going on it could be that the smoke detectors have dust contamination. To address this potential issue, vacuum around the openings of the alarm with a soft brush attachment.
Harry
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Hi Mark
Step one ought to be a clean with a vacuum and putting in new batteries, although on 20ft ladder this is, of course, quite dangerous. I personally would replace the alarm straight away with a longlife re-charging battery version, probably also change from ionisation to an optical detection, as this detection technology is less prone to false alarming. A suitable replacement alarm with ten year, re-charging batteries, optical sensor and which fits on the same base without the ned for an electrician is the easichange Ei166EK
Harry
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I would expect the alarms will still work but might not communicate with each other any longer. I am glad I was able to resolve this. Here a link to the replacement bases for Ei168.
Harry
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Hi, the bases do not need replacing (unless damaged, of course) and should not have a replacement date on them. I wonder whether you have a Ei168RF wireless interconnection base under the head. This would need indeed replacing after ten year.
Harry
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While the British Standards recommends annual servicing for all extinguishers, this is not legally binding. You must, however, have a way of maintaining your extinguishers in an operational state. You could, for example, replace your extinguisher every year or, in the case of small extinguishers, you could have regular visual and other self-inspection (is the pressure gauge showing green, can you hear the powder flowing freely inside, is the tamper tag still present, is there any damage visible) and just replace every 5 years.
Or you can go for a small service-free extinguisher that only requires visual inspection and replacement after ten years.
Harry
Foam
in Fire Extinguishers
Posted
Hi
Powder extinguishers are great for generators, vehicles etc, however, they are now frowned-upon for indoor use, as they can drastically reduce visibility and can cause harm through inhalation. They are also costly to clean up after (relevant if there is any risk of misuse or vandalism). For indoor use, foam, water and water mist are now the most common extinguishers, with CO2 still supplied for high voltage applications and server rooms. For typical office use with electrical equipment you should use extinguishers that have been tested dielectrically to 34,000 Volt. This applies to some foams and water mist extinguishers with de-ionised water.
Harry