Safelincs
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Posts posted by Safelincs
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Hi
At room temperature carbon monoxide (CO) has about the same density as air, so the height of the sensor is not that crucial, as the gas spreads evenly in the room. However, it makes sense to install the CO alarm at a height where you can easily see the display or LED lights. This allows you to monitor the device better and to replace batteries easily (where that is required). Also, you need to stay away from areas with fresh air draughts (windows, doors) and spikes in CO creation due to the lighting of a fire or boiler (eg don't install the alarm in a boiler cabinet).
Harry
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This double beep just means that the alarm is coming out of the hush mode 10 minutes after the test/hush button is pressed. All is fine.
Harry
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Hi Robin, in this case there could either be actual CO in your rooms or you have some contamination in the air (eg when you charge car batteries nearby). You ought to play safe and get a specialist in to measure concentrations.
Harry
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Hi Graeme
Usually, the crash/push bars and the code locks have to be of the same brand. We offer bars with matching locks
Eg Exidor push bar range with matching access devices
Harry
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Hi
I would recommend a dry water mist extinguisher with de-ionised water, as it is a broad spectrum extinguisher that leaves no deposit and can be used on electrics. The broad spectrum is important, as you have little control in a HMO over who is using the extinguisher and on what type of fire.
Alternatively, for larger buildings service-free foam extinguishers are the most cost-efficient extinguishers and the P50s are safe to use on electrical equipment (up to 1000V and with 1m safety distance). They do require annual visual inspection by the owner or their inhouse representatives.
arryH
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Hi Sophie
A dry water mist extinguisher with de-ionised water can fight all kitchen risks (deep fat, gas and electrical and is great within the home, as it leaves no deposits)
http://www.safelincs.co.uk/e-series-water-mist-fire-extinguishers/
Kind Regards
Harry
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Hi Jojo
The Kidde KF10 replaced the i240. However, base plate and connector blocks still have to be exchanged.
Harry
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Hi Diane,
smouldering ashes in a bucket would definitely produce a high amount of carbon monoxide (low burning temperature of residual ambers and low oxygen availability). After a restart of the detector (with most alarm models) everything should be ok again. Just make sure you do not leave smouldering ashes in the room in the future.
Harry
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Hi Julian, I assume you mean 20-25 inches. As carbon monoxide distributes freely in the air at room temperature (same density), both alarms should go off eventually, unless one is faulty or has a different trigger level. Please make sure both are still within their operating life. Which models are they?
Harry
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Hi Anne
I guess the Christmas tree version of this treatment spray should do the trick. The other important point is to use low energy bulbs, LED for example, to prevent dangerous heat build-up.
Harry
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Hi, I hope the readers won't mind if I suggest a page from Safelincs' commercial website showing a range of these green access control covers
Harry
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Hi
I have good news :-) It is definitely not the smoke alarm that is beeping. The ceiling base of an Ei141 does not contain a sounder! Please have a look around the room. There will be another device with low batteries, eg a carbon monoxide alarm. It is very difficult to locate the source of a beeping alarm, though.
Harry
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Hi Caroline, if the alarm is removed and the battery taken out, there is physically no sounder left on the ceiling that could beep! The base plate does not contain a sounder. There must be something else that beeps.
Just for info, if you hold the alarm in your hands and have the batteries removed you can make sure no residual power is left in the alarm by pressing the hush button.
Harry
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Hi Caroline
Did you already check the age of the alarms? If older than ten years, they will need replacing.
Does the beeping continue when the alarms are removed from the ceiling and the battery is removed? There is always the possibility that an old carbon monoxide alarm is hidden in a drawer somewhere, beeping away.
Here a link to a help page about Ei smoke alarms
Harry
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While 50ppm (ppm = parts per million) are seen as a 'safe level' to short term exposure, and 35ppm for an 8 hour exposure, there is no actual 'safe level for carbon monoxide as every carbon monoxide molecule is potentially able to block a red blood cell's ability to carry oxygen through the body. So even relatively small exposures will affect you in the long term. However, the European standard EN50291-1, which must be adhered to achieve a kitemark, only requires an alarm trigger of 50ppm.
This is why I personally prefer a digital display, as this allows me to see even small increases of the gas which enables me to act quickly to prevent a build up of carbon monoxide.
Harry
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The difficulty for the engineer will be that the period of CO detection is very limited, so most likely he will detect nothing when he turns up. You could increase your confidence about your detection of CO gas by placing a second CO alarm in the area. I would choose one with digital display so you get an actual reading.
You also need to ring Gas Emergency Services on 0800 111 999 to tell them that you suspect carbon monoxide from either your or your neighbour's gas appliance. It is probably best to tell them the exact times of the alarm.
Harry
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An excellent article, Anthony! Excellent reading and very clear.
Harry
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Hi
I am aware that re-charging open batteries (eg car or boat batteries) can trigger carbon monoxide alarms. However, your batteries are most likely sealed, so this should not be the cause. Is your house detached? If you live in a terraced house it could be your neighbour's appliances setting off your alarm (eg if you share a chimney stack system) as the gas finds its way through cracks in walls and chimneys.
Harry
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Which model safe do you have? We can then check out the manual.
Harry
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Hi Alan
You need a double door Coordinator. This should resolve the issue of incorrect closing sequence on your fire door.
Harry
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Hi Jerry
I am afraid the Ei150 series (TL and TLH etc) has just been discontinued.
You can replace as follows, though:
Ei151 replace with Ei161 Easichange model
Ei154 replace with Ei164 Easichange model
Ei156 replace with Ei166 Easichange model
You will need to change the plug at the end of the cable as well as the base plate. The wiring itself can remain and the new units will work with any remaining Ei150 series alarms. These kits come with a masking plate to cover ceiling blemishes from the old rectangular Ei150 alarm.
I hope this helps
Harry
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Hi Amanda
There is really just one thing you can do, and that is to get a Gas Safe certified plumber/fitter out to check your boiler. In the meantime it would be advisable to leave the boiler off.
Harry
How to change the passcode on Phoenix 1262
in Fire Safes and Fire Data Safes
Posted
Hi Bob
you need to make sure that the batteries are replaced in the front cover should they be low. Here also the lock instructions for the Phoenix Data Combi fire safe. If the standard factory code shown does not work you will need to get an original invoice to prove ownership to Phoenix before they issue a master code which is probably not possible in your case.
Harry