green-foam

The spanner symbol means it is in self test mode. To clear it you should press and hold the test button. If it is still giving problems, you can send it back under warranty, PROVIDED you have proof of purchase, if not then as there are no user serviceable parts you should dispose of it and buy a replacement. As an aside, do you have any smoke alarms in your apartment?

If an emergency light only has ONE LED it does not matter if it is red or green. New lights all have a green LED to indicate charging, Old lights have a red LED to indicate charging. So long as they last for at least 180 minutes when running on batteries there is no need to change them, but the cost of new batteries for some lights is almost the same cost as a complete new emergency light. The change to green LEDs came into being to avoid confusion. Some emergency lights have a self test feature, these usually have TWO LED's One red, One green, if everything is normal just the green LED will be on, if there is a fault the green LED will go out but the RED LED will flash along with a buzzer beeping several times once an hour. The number of flashes and beeps are to signal what the problem is. So if you see an emergency light with a constant green or red LED there is nothing to worry about.

If you CO detector stops beeping after you have changed the batteries, and so long as it operates when the Test button is pressed, and it is not past its life expectancy date, all is well.

More information please. What make and model of CO detectors do you have / try and what country are you in? Also what happens if you plug them both in, near each other.

Envrirograf seems to be popular. I found it by using google, I have no experience of it.

I believe you will find a fire door rated at 30 minutes is required, not because the wall is not load bearing, but because it leads into an integral garage. There are lots of references to it if you google "is a fire rated door required between garage and house"

I would also ask "How old is it, also what country are you in?"

While you wait for a reply from Tom, I googled, there are companies that will spray fabric with a fire retardant solution, minimum price is £96 + £6 / m of fabric and as Tom would say "Check out Fire safety of furniture and furnishings in the home A Guide to the UK Regulations page 29, A4.1. " (I guess they have changed it, I believe Tom means page 35. A 41 ?)

Could you not ask "Others on your estate" what they have done?

I assume that since you posted no more beeps? this being the case, I would not worry. That said I would suggest you check with the manufacturer regarding the life expectancy of your device, most carbon monoxide devices have a working life of 7 -10 years, it may be time to change yours.

A fire risk assessment determines should a fire alarm be installed or not, and if so to what category. Regarding your other points this is a fire safety forum, and as such we can not help you other than to suggest you read your contract and seek legal advice. ?

Stand alone carbon monoxide detectors detect carbon monoxide and should be installed near something that may give off carbon monoxide, such as a boiler, there is no point in having them in a room where there is no means of producing carbon monoxide. It has been known for a carbon monoxide detector to activate at what appears to be random, and only for a short time (Such as happened to you) If this happens and the carbon monoxide detector stops and does not repeat then it is probable that there was a small pocket of carbon monoxide that has since dissipated, and is nothing to worry about. If a carbon monoxide detector activates for a short time then stops, then repeats several times I would take the detector outside and if it does not stop, replace the detector, if it does stop put it back where it was, if it does not start, there is nothing to worry about. If it starts again open all the windows and look for a source of carbon monoxide (boiler) Get the boiler checked as soon as possible I would also suggest that you have smoke alarms in each bedroom, not carbon monoxide alarms as smoke alarms would be more useful, and preferably have interlinked smoke alarms, this can be done by either hard wiring them or radio interlinked. Either way smoke alarms should be replaced every 10 years and carbon monoxide alarms should be replaced every 5-7 years (Some last 5 years, some last 7 years.)

What did the fire sprinkler companies you asked suggest?

Carbon monoxide detectors are only supposed to activate when they sense carbon monoxide, it is NOT normal for it to activate when the shower is on. To be sure you could put the new CO detector adjacent the old one, turn on the shower and see what happens. From what you have said the old one will sound, which would indicate it has a problem (Check its age, as CO detectors last 5-7 years) I doubt they will both sound.

The forum is still active.? As I understand it, as it was a private seller they are NOT covered by the regulations, so it is down to you to check if it has a label, then your decision to buy it or not, but as a landlord you should supply suitable furniture for your property, there is no rule that says you must supply a sofa.

Most smoke alarms do flash on a regular basis to indicate they are powered and working, I would have to ask, what do the instructions for your smoke alarm say?

It does appear that the detector has developed a problem, as you say, it is not supposed to do that. As there are no user serviceable parts all you can do is change it. I would also suggest you consider changing it to an optical smoke alarm as they are better, you could of course call DETA on 01582 544 548

Sorry, your question is?

I would get another carbon monoxide alarm and place it in the same room as the other one, then light your fire, if they both activate you have a fire with a problem, which would need a gas engineer to look at. In the meantime if your carbon monoxide alarm activates, turn the fire off and open all the windows

2) LD2 – A system incorporating detectors in all circulation spaces that form part of the escape routes from the premises, and in all rooms or areas that present a high risk of fire to occupants. It doesn't say they must be interlinked, but as they will be mains powered it seems silly not to interlink them. 4) In simple terms, wireless smoke alarms are wired smoke alarms with a transceiver built in to make it wireless, but they still need to be mains powered. Wired smoke alarms cost less than wireless alarms. 5) I would guess it is sold as tamperproof because there is no battery compartment to open to change the battery.

A standard 3 hour test is designed to test all emergency lights, the idea being that they should all stay on for the duration of the test. It seems that it depends on the company you use as to how the results are given, some will tell you just which lights failed the test, and some will tell you if each light passed or failed the test. You should ask the company you use for the results in a format of your choice. (They may charge extra for the admin)

To be sure why not ask the makers of your wood burning stove.

As I understand it the label has to be sewn in during manufacture, not afterwards. You could try going back to where you got it from but that store is probably not trading just now. For what it is worth, It is only businesses that can not sell furniture with no fire label, are you a business?

The Deta 1151 smoke alarm is obsolete and it only had a 5 year warranty. I can only suggest you change both of your devices to new optical alarms, safelincs have a suggested alternative Click here

For clarification purposes. Below are two pictures of the same light. (Not shown is the power-supply and battery) The light has a diameter of only 19 mm. It is two LED's in the same package. It is usually mounted in the ceiling, so all that is seen is the light itself. When "normal" the LED shows a "dim" Green light (As shown below) When the mains fails it shows a bright white light (As shown below) which lasts for a minimum of 3 hours