Ronan

Thank you!

ok I will. For the cold smoke do you think these type of doors that form like a seal with the frame need the same type of intumescent with brushes? In that case wouldn't be a noise/weather seal be the same? Of course the intumescent needs to be there, I'm not sure about the brushes

Hi, I've found this website www.burglarybusters.ie and they claim to have doors that are more secure and still compliant with fire safety regulations. Do you know if these are really admissible or it's just them adjusting their marketing to what's required? Thank you

I'm trying to understand the same. If the brush touches the frame in my opinion it should be ok. Especially if it's 6mm for example. The intumescent expands enough to cover that gap. I'm no expert but I think the 4mm rule is just a rule, not required by law.

ok that means that if the lock has been installed properly these kits are not required? Thank you

Hi, I've seen intumescent kits sold online. Are those mandatory for FD30 doors? I've checked my doors at home and none have intumescent around the locks. Thank you Ronan

Got it thanks!

thank you, I will have to understand how to fit those but thanks

Thank you @Neil Ashdown MAFDI, do you mean something like this? https://envirograf.com/product/surface-mounted-brush-smoke-seals/ I can look into it, I understand how you would fit it at the hinges side, but how would you install it on the latch side? I also understand that this is a better solution based on your expert advice, but if I installed something like Surface mounted intumescent fire & fire/smoke seals at the hinges and latch, would it be better than nothing? https://envirograf.com/product/surface-mounted-intumescent-fire-firesmoke-seals/

Hi, I am thinking to fit something like surface mounted intumescent strips or surface mounted intumescent fire & fire/smoke seals over the hinges and the latch area, because I don't understand how smoke wouldn't pass through those. I wanted to get your expert opinion: is it a good idea? Bad idea? Useless?

After looking more into gaps I'm a bit confused. It doesn't seem like those 3+/-1 mm are a legal requirement, they are "recommended". Is that true?

thank you! It would be great if anyone could answers my questions, worst case I will learn at the course!

Hi, I am getting more and more passionate about fire safety regulations, especially on fire rated doors, also thanks to this forum. I am trying to understand more about why gaps are so important and how they were determined. For example - why 10mm gap is allowed at the bottom but only 4mm on the sides and on top? - why 5mm would fail? What's the difference with 4? That smoke seals are only 4mm or because flames would pass in 5mm but not in 4? - why 2mm is ok but less it's not? Thank you for helping me in understanding more. Could you suggest a good course or certification on these matters?

Hi @Neil Ashdown MAFDI, first of all thank you, it's great you took the time for such a detailed response, which is incredibly helpful. on 1) I was thinking to install this https://www.safelincs.co.uk/surface-mounted-drop-down-smoke-seal/?q=seal, hopefully this will fix the problem. I'm looking at threshold seals, do you think that would be better than the dropdown seal? on 2) I have taken better measurements and the door is not straight, there is a section on one of the sides that is 5.5 mms. Too bad the other side is 3.5 mms, so even trying to adjust it, I would have more than 4mms on one side (just a small section). Is there anything that can be done in this situation? Would that framefit product I mentioned above be helpful? The installer mentioned that intumescent strips with taller brushes will fix this but I'm not sure. on 3) ok I think I will replace these as a set, is it a job that anyone with some DIY skills can do or should I ask an expert? on 4) sounds like I will skip these as they weren't installed and I would not be able to put back the door the correct way. Thank you again!

Update, now they said they are going to provide documentation and also a metal tag that will show FD30, the company from where they got the core, this company identification. thank you @Mike North! It's always great when you can get answers from unbiased people. What are your qualifications? Just to be able to reinforce my argument with who provided it in case I get asked. Thank you

I have found a product called framefit. Does this actually work and is it an accepted solution, or is this just marketing? Thank you

Hi, is the CF number on the top or side of an FD30 door mandatory? I know someone that have their door without it. It was replaced a while ago by a contractor that assured the door is FD30 but didn't provide any CF number with it. Is that acceptable or even possible? If the brush seal is in the frame, I don't understand how this would work. The guy is also panicking because he's afraid the management company could sue him for breach of lease. I've told him that's not going to happen if he demonstrates his good will and that he wants to make things right, but I would like to know your opinion. Thank you

Hi, my apartment fire door has a gap of 12mm from the floor and I was thinking to use this https://www.safelincs.co.uk/surface-mounted-drop-down-smoke-seal/?q=seal does that mean that once that is in place it's enough to be compliant? Or is it just a temporary solution? If it's not enough to be considered compliant how can I fix that? Would a fire resistant threshold strip help? Not even sure it exists. The gaps on the sides go between 1mm and 4mm is there anything that can be done there? I think it's because the door or the frame are not perfectly straight. There is a small gap, 1 or 2 mm between the hinges and the end of the intumescent strip on the frame, should I add the missing piece? Or should I replace the entire strip? Is it something I could do on my own? Any suggestion on which one to buy? Last question, I have seen intumescent pads that can be placed on top of the hinges, is that something worth buying? Thank you for your help and patience.

thank you very much, you put my mind at ease

Thank you @George Drayton! This is invaluable information!!! I was getting caught into the weeds of certified installers and couldn't find any that would come for just an apartment door. There are a couple of joiners with years of experience though that are willing to do the job and your post put my mind at ease. They also both said that there is no need to change the frame as that is already for FD30 doors and they can just change the door leaf, I'm not an expert so tend to believe what they say. If they do that in compliance with the standard then it should be good right?

thank you @George Drayton and @green-foam. That is exactly the problem. I know the door certificate now is not valid anymore and if I go asking the insurance company 100% they are going to say I need to replace the door. My problem is that I cannot find anyone that does it, I'm ok with paying to replace the door but no one wants to take responsibility, it's a bit of a joke. I want to add to that the management company is not doing any check, it's been years that my door is like that, isn't that their responsibility? I learned about this stuff by chance but it's not my responsibility to know this.

Hi Neil, what's a flexible seal? Where can I find one? Thank you

Hi, I can't understand if the building regulations for apartments blocks in Ireland requires FD30 or FD30S door. It's not clear if FD30S is a good to have or it's mandatory. Thank you

yes it does, thanks

Hi, after changing floor from carpet to laminate, there is a 14mm gap from the floor to the bottom of the fire door. What can I use to fix that? Thank you