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  1. There are radio-interlinked units manufactured by Ei Electronics that are battery operated and suitable to connect stables with a house. Just install alarms in the house as well as the stables and all alarms will go off at the same time. However, keep in mind that the smoke alarms in the stables will sound as well if you have a fire in the house or if you are testing the alarms. You might have to modify the sounder in the smoke alarms placed in the stables if this is an issue (careful, this might affect warranty and function)
  2. A small mains powered optical unit is the Kidde Slick Unit and the dimensions are Height 38mm x Dia 142mm
  3. The Briton range of emergency exit equipment should be suitable for your requirements. The mechanisms have successfully been tested under the Building Corrosion Requirement test to Grade 3 (high corrosion). The lever access device is used in conjunction with the panic bars, pads and latches
  4. I guess we are talking radio-interlinked units: As standard 12 units can be connected. The system will accept more, however, when housecoding the alarms, the little LED light that indicates the number of units collected will not be able to show more than 12 units in the 'family'
  5. Hi Apart from being a legal and insurance requirement the main point is to ensure that fire extinguishers actually work and do not only look nice. The service engineer will also ensure that extinguishers are in the correct location, easy to reach and the right extinguisher for the risk at hand. The refill after five years has been designed to catch lining and rust problems. That all said we are currently introducing a new range from Britannia (Fireworld) that is guaranteed for ten years and can be self-maintained without service engineers. Watch this space!
  6. Most fire extinguishing equipment suppliers, like Safelincs Ltd will dispose of used fire extinguishers, this would mean a engineers visit to the site who will then take them away and dispose of them.
  7. Water extinguishers do need refilling after 5 years and usually replacing after ten years (although you could have a pressure test carried out and the extinguisher repainted etc). The British standard does not recommend having an extinguisher older than ten years. It would therefore be advisable to replace the water extinguishers you have with new ones.
  8. I would recommend a heat detector in the kitchen as this would not cause false alarms from cooking fumes, I would also suggest an optical sensor in the hallway/living room downstairs as the heat alarm in the kitchen on its own will not detect a fire in any of the other rooms.
  9. Yes the slick units will interconnect with all the 9HI range of alarms, using a hard wire interconnection.
  10. The best fire extinguisher for electrical fires is the CO2 extinguisher as it is leaving no residue; a powder extinguisher can be used but will damage the electric equipment and is messy.
  11. You need to get clarification from each manufacturer with regards to the suitability for mixing
  12. If the units are chirping it might signal that the battery is depleted. These units are sealed as they should have a working life of 10 years to match the life of the alarm.
  13. Halon fire extinguishers are suitable and still permitted for light aircrafts
  14. If you use gas appliances a small powder fire extinguisher is suitable (although messy). Otherwise a small foam extinguisher is best. Preferably with a shrouded head to avoid getting tangled up
  15. The mains powered radio linked smoke alarms can be powered from the lighting circuits. In actual fact we do recommend this over the provision of a separate power spur, as it removes the temptation to flick the switch off in the fuse box if there is any problem with the smoke alarms.
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